Cookie Night: Five Holiday Cookie Recipes

Plus, the best buttercream icing

It all started with a marshmallow. My maternal grandmother (a.k.a. Nanny) was the queen of cookies, not just at Christmas, but all year round. At any given time, her freezer was filled to the brim with Date Squares, Jam Jams, Nanaimo Bars and my favourite, iced shortbread sandwiches. My sister and I would sneak down into her basement and devour frozen cookies straight from the deep freeze on every single visit to my grandparents’ house.

Cookies are an essential part of Christmas for most people, especially here in Newfoundland, but the nostalgia factor is deeply rooted in me. Every year when Nanny and Poppy would come to our house for the holidays, they brought tins upon tins filled with her baking. But as she got older and the arthritis increased, the number of cookies dwindled. My sister, mother and Nanny started making Haystacks together about 12 years ago – a delicious rolled cookie with marshmallow, caramel and Rice Krispies.

This eventually evolved into Cookie Night, a night where my sister, mother and I get together and bake ‘til we drop: the record year saw almost 30 dozen cookies come out of the kitchen. It’s become one of the nights I look forward to most over the holidays, filled with laughter, wine and of course, cookies!

Even though my grandmother has passed away, her recipes are still pulled out every year, and as we set up the production line in my kitchen, using the giant Le Creuset pot I bought with my inheritance from her, she’s ever-present in every sweet, sticky ball.

Here are my five favourite cookie recipes to relish for your holiday baking.

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Haystacks

These soft, chewy clusters are made by melting caramels with butter and condensed milk, then dipping marshmallows in the sweet mixture and rolling them in Rice Krispies (preferably the Christmas-coloured ones). This is an adapted version of my grandmother’s recipe.

Ingredients:

• 1 package (10 ounces) Rice Krispies

• 1 can (10 ounces) sweetened condensed milk

• ½ cup butter, softened and cubed

• 1 package (14 ounces) caramels

• 1 package (16 ounces) large marshmallows

Directions:

1. Spread Rice Krispies onto a baking tray; set aside. In a double boiler (or a large cast-iron pot), combine condensed milk, butter, and caramels, stirring and melting until smooth. Remove from heat.

2. With a fork, quickly dip marshmallows into the hot mixture and allow the excess to drip off. Roll in cereal. Place on a parchment-lined pan; chill for 30 minutes. Remove from the pan and refrigerate in an airtight container.

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Hello Dollies

My aunt June’s favourite and a delicious square filled with chocolate, peanuts and coconut. Also known as Seven-Layer cookies or Magic Cookie Bars, these no-bake cookies are a cinch, assuming you nail the base layer. Note: this is a double batch!

Ingredients:

• 1 cup unsalted butter

• 3 cups graham cracker crumbs

• 2 cups sweetened coconut flakes

• 2 cups peanuts

• 2 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips

• 2 cans sweetened condensed milk

Directions:

1. Pre-heat oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of two 9 x 13″ baking dishes with foil (we’re going for a double batch here). Lightly butter and set aside.

2. Pour graham cracker crumbs into a large bowl. Melt butter on medium heat and add to crumbs. Stir to combine until mixture begins to stick together (you really want a decent paste-like consistency for the base; add more melted butter if needed), then pour half into each prepared pan and flatten with a spoon or fingers.

3. Pour half the coconut, then half of the chocolate chips on top of each crumb base to form two separate layers. Pour one of the sweetened condensed milks on top of each pan and bake the bars in the oven for about 30 minutes, or until tops are browned and caramelized. Let cool completely, then cut into bars.

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Nanaimo Bars

This legendary square is a Canadian favourite, was invented on Vancouver Island (read my history of it here) and is always on my cooking tray at Christmas time. My Nanny used to do a minted version with the addition of a teaspoon of mint extract and green food colouring to the creamy middle layer.

Ingredients:

Bottom layer:

• ½ cup butter, softened

• ¼ cup granulated sugar

• ⅓ cup cocoa powder

• 1 large egg, beaten

• 1 ¾ cups graham wafer crumbs

• ½ cup chopped walnuts (pecans or almonds can also be substituted here)

• 1 cup unsweetened shredded coconut

Middle Layer:

• ¼ cup butter, softened

• 3 Tbsp whipping cream

• 2 cups icing sugar

• 2 Tbsp custard powder (if you can’t find Bird’s custard powder, swap for instant vanilla pudding mix, an easy substitution!)

Top Layer:

• 5 oz (140 g) semi-sweet chocolate, broken into pieces (chocolate chips work too)

• 2 Tbsp butter

Directions:

1. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment, or grease lightly with butter.

2. Prepare the bottom layer: In a double boiler, whisk butter with granulated sugar, cocoa powder, and egg until melted, and the mixture thickens slightly.

3. Remove from heat and stir in graham wafer crumbs, shredded coconut and chopped walnuts until the mixture is well combined and resembles wet sand.

4. Firmly press the mixture into the square baking pan, making sure to press it into an even layer. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator to chill until firm, at least 15 minutes.

5. Next, prepare the middle layer of buttercream: In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter on medium speed until whipped, then add whipping cream and custard powder and mix until combined. Add 1 cup of confectioners’ sugar and mix on low until incorporated, then add the remaining confectioners’ sugar and mix on medium-high speed until the icing is light and fluffy. (This is when you add the mint extract and green food colouring, if you choose)

6. Once the bottom layer is chilled, pull it from the fridge and later the buttercream on top of the bottom layer and spread it evenly on top using a spatula, making sure to create a layer as thick as the bottom layer. Transfer the pan to the refrigerator to chill until the buttercream is set, around 30 minutes.

7. For the top layer: In a small saucepan or a double boiler, heat the chocolate and butter over low heat, stirring often, until melted and evenly combined. Spread the chocolate evenly over the buttercream using a spatula and return the pan to the fridge to chill, and for the chocolate to harden, around 25 minutes.

8. Score the chocolate top using a warm knife, then cut it into 16 squares. Nanaimo bars can be kept in the refrigerator for a few days before serving and freeze well.

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Jam Jams

The recipe for these soft, chewy molasses cookie sandwiches is an updated version of my grandmother’s. The classic Newfoundland and Labrador cookie was made famous by Purity, and the store-bought version is great, but I’ll always prefer my Nanny’s recipe.

Ingredients:

• 1 egg

• 1 cup butter, room temperature

• 1 cup white sugar

• ½ cup molasses

• 1 tsp vanilla

• 2 tsp baking soda dissolved in 3 tbsps hot water

• 2 tsp baking powder

• 1 tsp cinnamon

• ½ tsp salt

• 4 cups flour

• 2 cups (or more) of your favourite jam (bonus points for homemade or church sale-purchased)

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, white sugar and egg until combined, then add the molasses and vanilla and mix until smooth.

3. Once combined, add the baking soda water mixture and mix for another minute to combine.

4. Combine dry ingredients; mix baking powder, cinnamon, flour and salt in a separate bowl, then add to the wet ingredients a little at a time, mixing on low until fully combined and scraping down the sides to ensure everything is incorporated. The dough should be easily shaped.

5. Portion the dough with a small spoon, roll it into balls and place them on the lined cookie sheet. Press them into flat discs using a floured glass or your moistened palm.

6. Place cookies on parchment-lined baking sheets and bake for 10-12 minutes. Remove from the oven, resting on the tray for a few minutes, then transfer to a wire rack and let them cool completely.

7. Once cooled, make the cookie sandwiches. Spread at least two teaspoons of your favourite jam between the two cookies. Repeat and enjoy with a cup of tea.

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Whipped Shortbread

My sister Maggie and I were always obsessed with our Nanny’s shortbread cookies. She would either top them with sprinkles or make them into sandwiches, filled with pink icing – visually, they almost resemble a macaron, but way better. This recipe calls for a topping of sprinkles (see buttercream recipe below).

Ingredients:

• 1 cup butter, room temperature

• ¼ cup corn starch

• 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

• ½ cup confectioner’s sugar

• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 ½ cups toppings of choice (or frost them with my buttercream icing)

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Set aside.

2. Add the butter to a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip it on medium speed until light and fluffy – about 3 minutes.

3. Add the flour, corn starch, confectioner’s sugar, and vanilla. Mix until fully incorporated, about 2 minutes.

4. Roll the dough into small balls (using about 1 tbsp of dough) and place on the lined baking sheet. Leave a good 2 inches of space between each ball.

5. Next, dip a fork into confectioner’s sugar to keep the dough from sticking to the fork, and push the fork down onto the ball to flatten the ball to 1/2 inch or so.

6. Top the dough with sprinkles (or not if making into sandwiches).

7. Bake for 14 minutes. Remove from oven. Allow to cool for 2 minutes on the baking sheet before transferring to a wire rack to continue cooling.

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Buttercream Icing

This is my go-to recipe for buttercream icing. I use it on cakes, cupcakes, and of course, shortbread sandwiches at Christmas.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup of salted butter (trust me, salted is best), room temperature

• 4 cups of icing sugar

• 3 teaspoons of vanilla extract

• 4-5 tablespoons of whipping cream

Directions:

1. Beat the softened butter in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment until it is light and creamy.

2. Add in the icing sugar one cup at a time on slow speed so the powder doesn’t go everywhere.

3. Mix in the cream, one tablespoon at a time, so you can adjust the level of stiffness. I usually use about 4 tablespoons.

4. Add vanilla and keep mixing it until fluffy and thoroughly combined. Add in red food colouring, if using, to make the pink icing.

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‘Where We Ate’ makes a great gift

Give the gift of restaurant history this year. My book, Where We Ate, makes a wonderful holiday gift for the person in your life who loves restaurants, who loves Canadian history or who loves to peruse pretty pictures, menus and recipes. You can pick up a copy wherever you buy books.

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