Restaurant Review: Stella's Brasserie
When social enterprise nails the brief on dining out
When Hungry Heart announced they were rebranding I was sceptical. The social enterprise has been a favourite breakfast and lunch spot for over a decade – it is a cornerstone of the Rawlins Cross intersection in downtown St. John’s and of Stella’s Circle, a registered charity helping adults facing barriers fully participate in their community. I have always loved Hungry Heart’s meals and frequented their comfortable and cheerful restaurant for work lunches or breakfast catchups with friends. All of a sudden, they were going to do dinner only and completely change what they do best? Scepticism.
But Adam and I had dinner at Stella’s Brasserie last month a few weeks after the reinvention opened and the moment I walked through the door, my scepticism dissipated.
The space is completely transformed. SAM Design and design & DIY influencer Krista Wells of Georgestown on My Mind teamed up to remodel the space from lunchtime beige to dinnertime drama with hues of purple. Bistro stripe curtains line the two walls of windows, while the pinkish banquets frame the interior walls. Marble tops gleam under the lamplight on each of the tables and the dramatic backsplash tile is reminiscent of a traditional Newfoundland quilt. They nailed the details — everything right down to the logos on the menus and the historic photographs in the bathrooms have created a new vibe and feeling for Stella’s.
Our table wasn’t quite ready when we arrived, so we sat at the bar and had a cocktail. I opted for a classic French 75 ($14) with gin, lemon and sparkling wine and it was exactly what it should be — fresh and bubbly. Adam went for a house-crafted creation — a South of Georgetown ($14) with whiskey, peach, lemon and brown sugar — that was a new-fangled version of an Old Fashioned, and delicious.
The kitchen at Hungry Heart always had the great ability to make vegetables shine, and at Stella’s, it is no different. The vegetable dishes were my favourites of the evening in the end. Chef Katie Mullaley-Walters joined the Hungry Heart team in 2021 and carries on the legume legacy left by Chef Carolyn Power at Stella’s.
Lester’s Carrots ($15) hit the table first — they were barbecued with ranch dressing drizzled atop and punched up with a ton of fresh dill and a squeeze of lemon, while the candied pecans added a sweet crunch and variety to each bite.
The Beef Tartare ($20) arrived next, reminiscent of carpaccio di manzo, with arugula nestled on top and perfectly diced beef tossed with capers, cornichons, shallot and white truffle aioli. I barely used the accompanying baguette as I shovelled the bistro classic into my mouth. I’ve long proclaimed the Merchant Tavern as having the best tartare in the city, but Stella’s might just have stolen the crown. The Tuna Crudo ($24) with citrus soy vinaigrette, orange supreme and wonton crisp was the most expensive dish we enjoyed that night but was probably the most forgettable; the tuna sliced a little clunkier than I would have liked and the citrus soy was unexpectedly quiet for such a loud accoutrement.
More delicious veg — the Tomato Tartine’s ($13) roasted cherry tomatoes detonated the taste of summer as they burst in my mouth with the herbed cheese spread and crunchy Georgestown bakery baguette. Lastly, the Dynamite Shrimp Tacos ($10) had a great crunch from the crispy sushi rice and fried shrimp, given a Japanese flare with Furikake seasoning and spicy aioli.
For dessert, a beautiful chocolate tart to finish a parade of delicious small plates.
Overall, Hungry Heat’s transformation is shiny and new, but its service and comfort are still there; eager servers and bartenders at Stella’s tended to our every need and great music flowed through the room, just loud enough to compete with the din of diners enjoying each other.
As diners become more thoughtful about their restaurant choices and their social responsibility when it comes to where they eat and what they eat, social enterprise restaurants will feel more like mainstream dining and less like charitable acts by the diner. That said, social enterprise restaurants often don’t get the credit they are due — I think much of the public assumes restaurants like Hungry Heart are there for the people who are working in them, and underrate the food on offer. Stella’s is not that. The restaurant has been transformed from a comfortable lunch spot with soup and sandwiches to a dark and moody restaurant with cocktails and small plates — a shiny new cornerstone in Rawlins Cross, with the same heart and deliciousness.
Note: Lovers of Hungry Heart need not fear! The company has recently announced they are moving their catering services to 77 Charter Avenue in conjunction with Food First NL and opening a cafe! Stay tuned to their social media for opening times.
Always a well worded review! I have such an appreciation for your work, Gabby!